While in Arequipa, we chose to take a two day organised tour to the Colca Canyon region, which would allow us to see the dramatic volcano dominated landscapes, the vicuñas (precious wild camelids), typical valley villages and, of course, the famous Andean condors.
Colca means ‘storehouse’; the region used to contain many cave-like storehouses that acted as historical refrigerators, due to the shadowy cool climate of the valleys. The canyon is divided into an upper and lower section.
The traditional dress of the ladies reflects which part of the canyon they are from; a white hat symbolises the snowy mountains of the upper valley and an embroidered hat the more fertile lands of the lower valley.
In the past the difference was a little more macabre; the upper valley practiced cranial modification with elongated skulls like the pointy mountains and the lower valley had flatter wide skulls like the more undulous landscape.
Day 1
As our small bus ascended into the mountainous region north of Arequipa, we were treated to some astounding landscapes.
The terrain flattened out and we entered the Reserva Pampas Cañahuas – vicuña land! This protected area has helped to bring this beautiful wild creature off of the endangered species list.
At a convenience stop called Patahuasi we were able to try a tea called Mate Inka, a blend of coca leaves, muña (Andean mint) and something called chachacoma. I also made very good friends with a little cat!
We got the chance to mingle with a delightful male llama and alpaca herd. These animals are not wild; they are owned and tended by shepherds. Their colourful ear decorations symbolise fertility and protection.
Ascending higher and higher, we stopped at some semi frozen wetlands of fresh water where we observed Andean geese and other wild birds.
Prior to reaching the highest point of the day, we had been instructed by our guide on how to chew coca leaves, a traditional remedy for the problems associated with high altitude. We first chewed 7 leaves with some ash which acts as a catalyst, and an hour or so later we chewed a further 3. The taste is sweet and not unpleasant; the mixture makes you produce a lot of saliva, which is swallowed and acts as a mild stimulant. The leaves also make your mouth numb as they are a natural anaesthetic!
The highest point was a view point called Patapampa, at no less than 4910 meters above sea level. The views of the Ampato group of volcanoes were stunning. Ampato is where the renowned Inca ice maiden Juanita (sacrificed) was found. The Sabancaya volcano to its left is active, evidenced by its steady smoking. At this viewpoint there were hundreds of small piles of stones. We were told that these are wishes made to Pachamama (goddess of the earth). Alex and I both dutifully made our own little stone towers, and made a wish which will remain a secret!
Chivay is the capital of the Colca region, and this was where our lunch and accommodation for the night was.
Before we could retire to bed, we were taken for a hike in the surrounding countryside. We were able to observe Inca and pre-Inca agricultural terracing. The locals still utilise the lower levels of terracing. We also saw a small ruined Inca town whose buildings used to be plated in copper. Of course, when the Spanish arrived, they sacked the town and melted the copper down in order to make church bells.
The last stop of the day was La Calera, hot springs of around 38 degrees Celsius! Very nice until the temperature started to plummet; at that kind of altitude the days are very hot, but at night the temperature drops below freezing!
Day 2
After a very early (and very very cold!) start, we began our journey to see the condors in the upper canyon. We passed through a town to see some children performing traditional dances. Apparently they learn the dances as part of their curriculum and must take turns performing for tourists before school every day. We also stopped at a viewpoint to appreciate the early morning sun starting to wash over the valleys.
We arrived at the Cruz del Condor at approximately 8am and didn’t have to wait long to see the condors beginning their daily ascent up the canyon’s thermals in gliding circular movements. We got a few shots of them, and they are certainly majestic creatures. Condors don’t have claws like hawks, they have chicken-like feet, however their beaks are razor sharp. They generally eat carrion. A male condor has a crest, the pictures here are of a young female of about 7 years of age. When they get older (and they can live up to 45 years in the wild), their feathers start to turn white.
We also took a hike around the edge of the canyon, in order to appreciate its depth. 1600m deep at this point, 4000m deep at its most profound.
Another viewpoint on the return called Mirador de Auto took in the extensive agricultural terracing and we were able to try an ice-cream made out of local cactus fruit. Luckily by this point the day had warmed up!
We also stopped in a town called Maca which was very touristy.
We returned to Chivay for lunch and looked at the local market before embarking on the return journey to Arequipa.
We thoroughly enjoyed the tour and our guide was very knowledgeable, you may have noticed that I have been imparting some of his facts and figures in the post! It was quite full on and sometimes a little challenging (the early starts, the freezing cold and the effects of altitude), but the scenery repeatedly took our breath away -precisely what we are looking for on our journey!
Scrivo in Italiano, Alex tadurrà….Sono Sandra, l’amica peruviana di Stefania e Luca, di Livorno. Mi fa tanto piacere seguirvi passo passo nelle vostre dettagliate descrizioni. Amo il mio paese e dico sempre che sono figlia di 2 paesi più belli del mondo! infatti sono nata in Perù da padre peruviano e madre italiana. Ho una nostalgia degli spazi infiniti, dei colori colorati, del calore caloroso delle persone, della lingua, degli odori e dei sapori del cibo. Vi auguro buona continuazione! Abbraccio!
Grazie signora Sandra, ci fa piacere che stia seguendo i nostri movimenti. Anche noi amiamo il Peru’ e speriamo di riuscire a rendere omaggio al suo meraviglioso paese! Un abbracio.