Having said goodbye to Central America with a little tear in our eyes, we entered the Riviera Maya in Mexico to resume the usual business of finding dusty, remote and bug infested archaeological sites. So we rented a car in Chetumal and off we went in search of our next destination, the ancient city of Calakmul. The glyph emblem for Calakmul was that of a snake which proliferated throughout its vast territory, hence the nickname Kingdom of the Snake or Snake Kingdom. We did see 3 snakes during our visit so it must be true!
There are several notable aspects to the Maya archaeological site of Calakmul, the first being that it is one of the most remote sites to reach. (Alex was delighted, not!). In case you are wondering whether it is worth it, Calakmul was one of the most important mega cities of its time (with over 6,000 structures and a population of 50,000), and a powerful neighbour and rival to the mighty Tikal, just over the border in Guatemala. Calakmul boasts the tallest temple pyramid ever found, which you can scale right to the top and the site is nestled in the unspoilt expanse of the Mayan Biosphere (both the ruins and the biosphere are UNESCO listed). That means that you are also on a nature trip to experience the unique and protected flora and fauna of the region.
Location
Calakmul is in modern-day Mexico in the state of Campeche. It’s incredibly close to the Peten region in Guatemala where Tikal lies although there is no path through the dense jungle to link the two.
Where to stay
We chose to stay in the nearby backwater town of Xpujil because it had the most reasonably priced accommodation. If you stay here don’t expect too much! There are a couple of pricier hotels/ecolodges further on the main highway and a campsite inside the biosphere. Xpujil is about an hour and a half drive from Chetumal on the coast. This is where we had entered Mexico after spending our honeymoon on Caye Caulker in Belize.
Getting there
Calakmul is 1 and a half to 2 hours drive from Xpujil. The first hour or so if spent on the Highway 186 which is a good asphalt road. You can immediately sense the presence of the biosphere as there are a myriad of butterflies and insects flying all over the road. Unfortunately you are going to squish quite a few of them on the windscreen! We also saw some beautiful Motmot birds flying over.
The turn off to Calakmul is well signposted and it is here that you have to pay the first of 3 fees. It’s a little confusing and annoying and you must bring Mexican pesos as they won’t accept USD. This 50 peso fee is to enter the biosphere.
The first 20km or so takes about 15min on a road which is in fair condition. There are 2 lanes and some pot holes. You will reach a car park with a small museum but you haven’t arrived yet! Take the road to the right and it is here that you pay the second fee. This 65 peso fee is to use the road to the archaeological site.
The next 45km takes about 45mins on a narrower single lane road with lots of bends and many pot holes. Be very careful and take your time. It’s hard to see those potholes because of the dappled shade and you don’t want to be having car problems in the middle of nowhere!
After what seems like an eternity you will arrive at the car park for the archaeological site and it’s another 65 pesos to enter.
Facilities are limited; there are a few eco loos and a small reception. Guides are available. There is no food or drink for sale; you must bring it all in with you. It’s hot hot hot and you are going to want to climb everything so bring plenty of water along with your sunscreen and bug spray.
The site
We followed the medium trail (take a picture of the map before you go in as it is confusing!) but did it the wrong way round. Make sure you head for the grand plaza and main complex of large temples first. It’s quite a walk until you see anything so this is where you can keep an eye out for animals. We saw turkeys, monkeys, snakes, woodpeckers and a deer along with insects and butterflies.
Head for structure II, this is the largest temple pyramid and it stands at 45m tall and its base is 120m square. As was customary, the pyramid was constructed over the ages by building over existing structures and leaving them intact underneath. You climb up the main part, which actually doesn’t look that tall from the ground, only to discover that there is yet another structure perched on top but hidden behind it, leading further up and up. You can also see the remains of scary looking masks on the facade of the pyramid as you climb up. It’s difficult to appreciate the size of this pyramid unless you have a helicopter; luckily National Geographic have just published this wonderful article and it includes a video from the air.
From the top of the structure II you can see the partially restored Structure I which appears to be taller, but it is built on a hill so it is cheating! It is 50m tall in total and you can also climb it. Because only the front has been restored it has that wonderful lost world feeling as it peeks from the jungle canopy.
If you look out from the top of Structure II you can also see across the grand plaza to Structure VII.
We recommend climbing structure VII for a view back to Structures II and I.
It really is amazing to be looking out above the canopy of the jungle and you can basically see all the way to Guatemala. The day we were there was very clear but it was so so so so sooooo hot!
The grand plaza is impressive to look around and the rest of the site is also pleasant, there are many structures and stelae (stone monuments that look like overgrown tombstones) but remember that this was only the core of the city; much more has not been excavated.
So, was Calakmul worth the effort? We thought so and we were actually surprised that on the Sunday we visited there were quite a few other tourists and families. So, whilst it is not the easiest site to get to, and involves setting aside a few days to visit it, it’s not quite the case that you need to hack your way through dense jungle to discover it. Nothing beats slogging and scrambling up huge temple pyramids and being rewarded by epic vistas of the Mayan biosphere below. And trust us, we’ve done a few by now!
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