Valparaíso, or Valpo as it is affectionately called, is a significant port 120km from Santiago, which rose to importance following Chile’s independence from Spain and the liberalisation of trade. Copper, silver and nitrate were the main international exports, with many foreign investors (especially the British) flocking to the city to make their fortunes. Valparaíso was the main hub on the shipping route from Europe to the Americas via the Magellan Straights, only declining when the Panama Canal was opened in 1914. Today Valparaíso is still a working port and we saw many colossal container ships being loaded and unloaded at the docks. It is also the main naval base of the country and we saw up to 5 military ships docked there. Here is our portrait of Valparaíso!
The UNESCO World Heritage listed historic quarter of the city has a kind of crumbling grandeur of times past, and it is certainly evident that it was once very affluent. Valparaíso consists of a flat zone around the bay, surrounded by a series of sharply rising hills all around, often likened to an amphitheatre. The flat zone is called El Plan after the plan to rebuild the city following the devastating earthquake in 1906. El Plan is home to the Barrio Puerto, a slightly rougher looking area, where it is possible to pick up good seafood meals (and we certainly did just that at Los Portenos several times!). This area, far from the bohemian and more tourist-friendly Cerro Alegre and Cerro Concepcíon, is the culinary heart of the city, where mostly locals can be found for their sacred “almuerzo”.We had hoped to visit the fish market but found it derelict and closed, albeit with a regeneration planned.
The hills or ‘cerros’ of Valpo are each quite distinct and show the economic differences between their inhabitants in the architecture. At times the housing looks quite ramshackle and almost like a shanty town with its corrugated iron roofs and small colourful houses clinging precariously to the sides of the hills. The ‘cerros’ each have a different feel, but Concepcíon and Alegre are the most popular with tourists, due to their nightlife, arty bohemian feel and intriguing array of graffiti pieces. It is certainly a pleasure to wander around the little alleyways admiring the housing and graffiti alike. The hills are also inhabited by hordes of stray dogs. They are mostly innocuous but they can kick up a noisy fuss when they gang up together, or they might decide to follow you all the way home for miles on end. Just make sure not to feed/look at/or talk to them or you’ll never get rid of them!
One fun part of the hills is that they are still linked by some of the ascensors from the late 1800s and early 1900s. These ascensores are a handy way of bypassing a long walk up a hill and they are incredibly cheap, some costing as little as 10 pence. The city is bringing several of these that have fallen into disrepair back into use.
We rented an apartment in Valpo on AIRBNB, with the most stunning of views. It was way up on one of the hills and had a perfect panoramic vista of the bay. We had to always use a collectivo taxi (a taxi shared with other people) to return home (only 70 pence each!), but the view at cocktail time was certainly worth it. During our stay we had the unexpected pleasure of witnessing a major earthquake (my first), which sent the city into high alert for a tsunami. Luckily the bay is fairly well protected, but towns further up the coast suffered damage and some fatalities.
Valparaíso’s past as a busy port has meant that its population has been incredibly diverse. It is possible to see this reflected in the three large cemeteries holding the family tombs of many residents of European origin or descent.
Valparaíso was also a part-time home to Chile’s much celebrated poet, Pablo Neruda. Neruda was a maniacal collector of curiosities and it is possible to visit the house, La Sebastiana, and see how the nautical themes with which he decorated it influenced his poetic style. Unfortunately no pictures are allowed, but you can check it out here.
We stopped in Valpo for a rest after travelling through Peru, Bolivia and northern Chile. We really enjoyed having our own apartment and the space in which to feel like we had a little home – something that can be important when travelling for an extended period of time. Our opinion is that Valparaíso is a good alternative city experience as, although it lacks some of the polished sightseeing of metropolises, it has a wealth of rough around the edges unconventional charm. The city can seem daunting at first, but once you get the hang of the hills and the transport, it is fun to explore its twists and turns and find your own hidden gems. The accessibility and unpredictability of the city’s laid back culture and art makes it ever so easy to fall in love with.
Great photos! We loved Valpo! We stayed in Vina Del Mar and after visiting Valpo we wished we had stayed Valpo. So many great cafes and coffee shops to explore with wonderful views. Also the art scene is fantastic there! It is rough around the edges yet charming like you say. All of the stray dogs were a little depressing but then we noticed that the locals leave water out for them. I thought that was really sweet of them.
We didn’t manage to visit Vina de Mar. We kept saying we would but never quite made it! I will be interested to hear what you thought of it, but yes, Valpo is quite fascinating. Jess