Angkor Wat, the most well-known of over 1,000 temples in the ancient city of Angkor is an undisputed global icon, and also an emblematic source of pride for the Cambodian people – so much so that the temple even appears on the Cambodian flag. Any trip to South East Asia would surely be lacking if it did not include a visit to the World Heritage listed Angkor Archaeological Park. Although that does make it a touristy experience, it is believed to be the largest religious site in the world, so it is still (just about) possible to find a little corner for yourself and a sense of peaceful enjoyment. Due to Angkor’s immense size, it can be daunting to plan a trip there, so, here is our guide to visiting Angkor Wat.
Some History
The Angkor Archaeological Park contains the countless ancient ruins of the Khmer Empire, spanning the 9th to 15th centuries. After the 15th century, the complex fell into disuse and disrepair following the Khmer’s unsuccessful war against the rival centre of Ayutthaya, in modern-day Thailand. Although never ‘lost’ to the Cambodian people, Angkor was only ‘discovered’ by Europeans at the end of the 19th century, whilst it was a protectorate of France.
Cambodia’s history since then has included independence, civil war, genocide under Pol Pot’s Khmer Rouge, liberation and finally transition to a still fragile peace.
Undoubtedly Cambodia’s most well-known period in our collective consciousness is that of the Khmer Rouge between 1975 and 1979, and it is this complicated and brutal period which will forever have an influence on modern Cambodia and the perception foreigners have of it. During this era, Pol Pot advocated the persecution of religion and the destruction of religious architecture (some figures put the loss at over 95% of Buddhist temples), however Angkor escaped unscathed. Thankfully, as a representation of a glorious and entirely Cambodian past, it was too valuable a nationalist symbol to attack.
During those troubled years, it was impossible to visit Angkor, but since the 1990s, the area has opened up to tourism, with more and more visitors pouring in every year.
Getting there
The international airport of Siem Reap, less than an hour from Siem Reap town and the ruins of Angkor, making the area incredibly accessible for tourism. We arrived from Hoi An in Vietnam and when we left we flew to Bangkok, Thailand. You’ll need to buy a Cambodian tourist visa, depending on your nationality. We bought ours on arrival, but to save some time and hassle, you can get one in advance before you leave home.
Getting around
You can easily walk around Siem Reap town on foot, although there are no shortages of Tuk Tuk drivers wanting to give you a lift. To visit the ruins themselves, about 20 minutes from the town, there are several choices. Fully guided big bus tours with hordes of other tourists are not for us, so we had to think of the best alternative.
A very common way to visit the ruins is to hire a Tuk Tuk and driver for the day. It’s a bit hit and miss whether or not they will also give you some information along the way. Your accommodation should be able to recommend trustworthy and helpful drivers and you can hire qualified guides at each site if you wish. It seemed to us that the Tuk Tuk tours run quite punishing schedules, having you up before dawn and whizzed around their choice of temples before the onset of the afternoon heat.
As we like independent travel and complete flexibility we decided to choose between hiring bicycles, electric bikes or a scooter. Given the distances (do not underestimate them!) and heat we opted for the faster (and method involving the least exertion) scooter. Unless you are very fit and prepared to cycle many kilometres in the sun, we would not recommend bicycles.
Until recently we understand that renting a scooter was not possible for foreigners. This has definitely changed and there are several places offering rental in the town. It’s a bit pricier than other Asian countries, and, due to the slight lawlessness of Cambodian roads, you should only choose this option if you are an experienced and confident driver (like Alex who likes to drive in every country we visit – apart from India obviously!).
It’s worth noting that there are elephant rides within the park. This is not something we support and we urge our readers to think twice before supporting this type of tourism. If you want to interact with elephants, visit a sanctuary with only the most impeccable credentials. You can read about our experience with elephants in Thailand here.
Where to stay
Accommodation in Siem Reap ranges from upmarket mega-hotels right down to cheap hostels. We found that for a very decent price (our budget of £20 per night), small boutique hotels with breakfast included and a swimming pool were widely available. Believe us, the pool is important after a long day at the ruins!
Ticketing
You can visit The Angkor Archaeological Park on a 1 day, 3 day or 7 day ticket. We aren’t really sure why anyone would buy a 1 day ticket as it would be very rushed, but you could see the main temples if you went in guns blazing from dawn till dusk. The 3 day ticket is valid over the course of 10 days and the 7 day ticket is valid over the course of a month.
We chose the 3 day ticket and appreciated the flexibility to use it over the one week period that we were there as we could take time off ruins to explore the town, and not get too ‘templed-out’.
Tip.
Buy your Angkor ticket just before the visitor centre closes. It’s then immediately valid, but also valid for the number of days you purchased. So, you are getting a sunset visit for free! We didn’t do his and ended up wasting time buying the ticket on our first day.
Unfortunately for us, the ticket prices increased significantly a week before we arrived! Prior to that there had been no change in price for years. For current prices check the official website here. We found the price of the ticket to be quite expensive compared to what we have paid in other countries, however if you consider the size of the archaeological park and the amount of restoration yet to be done, you can at least feel safe in the knowledge that your money is going to be put to good use preserving and developing the site for the future…at least you can choose to be an optimist and hope that’s the case!
One thing to note is that tickets are bought and your photograph is put on to them at the visitor centre which is a few kilometres detour from the road to Angkor. If you are with a Tuk Tuk driver or tour, they will escort you, but if you are on your own, be sure to locate the visitor centre before you try to access the park, otherwise you’ll end up wasting a lot of time.
How to approach Angkor
Firstly, there is no right and wrong way to Angkor! Reconcile yourself to the fact that it is an incredibly, and increasingly popular tourist destination so you are going to have to negotiate your way through crowds at some points. However, you can still find a few moments of relative aloneness, if you make a point of going against the tide of recommendations of how you should do Angkor (apart from this guide obviously!).
Most tips that we found online tell you that you must leave your hotel at 4am and be at the ruins at dawn in order to see them in all their glory and have time to do everything. We think that this is wrong. Firstly, we hate getting up early, whatever the reason, and secondly that’s exactly what everyone else is doing! Of course seeing temples at dawn will have a certain charm and that is the cooler part of the day, but there is also the tail end of the day and sunset to enjoy. If you are really looking to beat the crowds, then the middle (and hottest part of the day) can be a good option. Whilst everyone else is conked out at their hotel, you will have more space to roam. Do drink plenty of water though, dehydration is a serious issue. There are lots of little restaurants and stalls in the park (lots of it is actually inhabited by villages!) so you are never far away from a nice cold coconut and a snack.
On each of our 3 days in the park we didn’t spend more than a few hours exploring. If you do much more then you’ll be exhausted and probably not enjoy what you are seeing. We would set off late morning, see one site, have a nice refreshing lunch break and then continue until the end of the day.
Narrowing down your must-see sites is your first job. As a minimum you will want to see Angkor Wat (it’s what you are there for!), Bayon (the temples with the giant faces) and Ta Prohm (the ‘Tombraider’ temple with the giant trees and roots).
Day 1 Warming up
Ta Prohm.
Ta Prohm is the so-called ‘Tombraider’ temple because it is the location where part of the first Angelina Jolie Tombraider film was filmed (go to minute 4 in the video). It’s certainly an Indiana Jones experience as it has a romantic-just-discovered air about it, if you can manage to dodge all the other tourists!
It still seems so undiscovered due to the immense trees and roots which are growing out of an on top of the temple walls, almost engulfing them at certain points.
It seems that it is too dangerous to risk removing the trees and roots as they are almost holding the place together, but, that said, there was some significant restoration going on whilst we were there. The monumental trees and the roots are one of the main draws for this site, so hopefully a balance can be found with the restoration process.
You’ll have to queue for a picture at the most iconic and impressive of tree roots, but there is plenty of space to wander around within the walls and weave in and out of the ruined temples.
Tips.
For the best overall pictures, head for the inside corners of the walls.
This site is mostly shady, so good at any time of day, but best to avoid late morning as this is the last stop on the morning tour group itineraries.
Ta Keo.
Ta Keo is a symmetrical mountain temple which is worth the steep hot climb for a view over the forest. There is very little shade here so take it slow.
Banteay Kdei
Banteay Kdei is a largely dilapidated Buddhist monastery. We found it to be fairly empty and it was enchanting to wander around the ruined corridors and passageways, admiring the many nymph-like apsara carvings.
It also has some giant roots and trees to marvel at, although they are not quite as impressive as at Ta Phrom.
Sras Srang
The Sras Srang royal bathing lake is worth a look, and there are several cafes and restaurants here for a break.
Day 2 The Biggies
Angkor Wat
Approached via a bouncy floating bridge (the original causeway is closed off) over an immense moat and entered through an elaborate gateway, the square island complex of Angkor Wat immediately impresses its majesty upon you. You should certainly allow 2-3 hours for the site as it spans a large area and there is a lot to see.
Angkor Wat was built by Khmer King Suryavarman II as a mausoleum and temple to the Hindu god Vishnu, and it has been in constant use over the centuries. It was also occupied by Buddhist monks and this is why it became known as a ‘wat’, the name for a Buddhist temple.
The temple takes the form of a temple mountain, and also contains many galleries, the most impressive of which contain the epic bas-relief depicting scenes from the Ramayana and the tale of The Churning of the Sea of Milk.
There are also numerous depictions of apsaras (female spirits) and devata (deities).
Tip.
That classic shot of Angkor Wat in front of a body of water where the temple towers are reflected is in fact not all that romantic. In order to get that shot, you basically have to kneel down in front of a muddy puddle!
Phnom Bakheng
Moving on from Angkor Wat towards Angkor Thom you will pass a turn off for Phnom Bakheng which is a temple on a hill from which there is a view towards Angkor Wat. Like us, you might be disappointed with the view as it is really quite distant.
The pictures you see on the internet of Angkor from afar will have been taken by taken using a ridiculous zoom lens or from drones and aircraft. To add insult to injury after the sweaty 20 minute hike up the hill, we found our view obstructed by a bunch of workmen operating a crane!
Angkor Thom
Angkor Thom is a ridiculously huge temple complex enclosed by a square wall, which you enter over a moat and through an imposing archway of giant heads, a taste of what is to come.
Within Angkor Thom you will find Bayon
Bayon is unlike anything you will have seen before and was perhaps our favourite site, as it’s temple towers are topped off with surreal giant faces!
Each way you turn it is like looking through a prism as the heads multiply and stare on benevolently into the jungle. Underneath these temple heads is a dark maze of tunnels which are spooky to explore.
Be sure to also look at the bas-relief around the periphery which depict the activities of the Kingdom. We visited Bayon at the end of the day and were able to enjoy the sunset hues in the sky and a much cooler atmosphere.
Just next door to Bayon you can find the Terrace of the Elephants and Terrace of the Leper King.
Day 3 Off the Beaten Track
This is your chance to pick a lesser known temple or somewhere that you are particularly interested in. We chose Banteay Srei, arguably the prettiest (rose-pink stone) and most intricately carved temple which stands out from the rest of Angkor.
Banteay Srei
Banteay Srei is a compact little temple dedicated to the Hindu God Shiva, and it is the only temple at Angkor not built by a monarch. It’s about 25km outside of the main group of temples, so it takes a little time to get to (at least on bumpy countryside roads and a scooter!), but it is certainly worth it.
The pink hued sandstone of the small structures is carved in almost a 3D fashion, making for some of the most dazzling scenes, fables and deities in all of Angkor.
Tip.
There are a lot of local children at this site trying to sell you postcards and other trinkets. It can be quite irritating and difficult to resist, however the official guideline is not to give or buy anything.
On the road to Banteay Srei, you can find a Land Mine Museum. Unfortunately, we ran out of time, but this would undoubtedly be a perfect cultural accompaniment to a day trip. Also alongside the road are many villages, with vendors selling interesting textiles, snacks like cashew nuts and other local delicacies.
Activities for your off days
Besides lounging in your hotel pool, there are plenty of other activities to keep you busy when you are having an off-day from the temples.
Siem Reap town is a little chaotic, but quite pleasant to look around. It’s seething with souvenir markets, cafes, street food stalls and restaurants, and the central food market is worth a look, especially if you have not seen a typical Asian market before. Likely souvenirs would be the famous peppercorns from the Kampot region, or Cambodian silk items.
At nighttime, the activities ramp up, with even more stalls and markets and a lively party scene. There is even a Beer Street (check out the Angkor beer!), but be sure not to get too rowdy, as Cambodians are quite modest and if you don’t respect their customs you might end up being deported.
You may also see small groups of amputees playing and selling their traditional music in the street or inside the Archaeological Park.
There is a large museum to visit on the road to Angkor. We found the museum a little confusing, and the videos difficult to hear, but the artefacts we interesting. We think it needs an overhaul and modernisation, but it is worth going to take a look at the more precious and perishable exhibits. No doubt there are many more treasures in the capital or in museums abroad.
Unfortunately, we ran out of time and were not able to visit the great lake called Tonle Sap. This would certainly have offered an interesting peek into the lives and traditions of the local people.
Food
Eating in Siem Reap is all about BBQ! As the smoke from the fires begins to fill the air as the night begins, along with the more traditional cuts of meat, you can also try frogs legs and everything is served with Kampot pepper sauce made front ground pepper corns, lime juice and salt.
A dish not to miss is the famous Amok, a curry dish prepared in banana leaves with a thick and spicy coconut sauce to which chicken, fish or pork are usually added. Mind you, they like their curries hot in this part of the world so be prepared!
We also remember that the ice cream in Siem Reap was excellent and it’s also essential to try the fat creamy cashew nuts.
So, what can we really say about Angkor in order to sum it up?! It’s a major tourist attraction for Cambodia and indeed the whole region, but you can definitely still find our own way to visit the ruins and carve out your own little space in order to feel the majesty and appreciate the visions of grandeur of the ancients. Siem Reap town is an affable and fun place, so when you aren’t soaking up the ancient past, you can also enjoy the culture and friendliness of the Cambodian people.
As increased and mass tourism is an inevitability at Angkor, the most important aspects for its future will be its protection and sustainable management. As more and more of the archaeological park is excavated (thanks to ticket sales), hopefully new treasures will be revealed, and also more space will be found to absorb the many tourists who flock to see this gem of South East Asia.
Just like Machu Picchu, Easter Island and the Taj Mahal, Angkor needs to be seen to be fully appreciated. It too belongs to that exclusive club of world sites that should be on everyone’s bucket list. Despite their fame and crowdedness, these sites will always have the effect of making you feel humble and inspire feelings of awe of the great civilisations of mankind who had such incredible vision and achieved such monumental feats.
Very insightful and helpful tips, greatly appreciate this!
Our pleasure 🙂